In Ukraine
The coat was a traditional part of Ukrainian shoulder clothing, sewn from sheep skins. The coats were of various lengths, with or without sleeves, mostly white. Coats were worn in winter and summer as part of the traditional Ukrainian outfit. Caskets were also embroidered with silk or woolen threads.
In the Kyiv region, simple and trunked jackets were distinguished. Simple ones were worn by the common population, and full-bodied ones were worn by more wealthy people. The body coat was without a waist and folds, and even earlier without sleeves. The torso jacket was often covered with cloth or Cherkasin. A simple coat was often covered with these fabrics, then it was called a baibarak.
Hungarian-Ukrainians wore coats short to the waist, but with sleeves. The same short coats were sometimes worn and worn. In ancient paintings, Cossacks were also depicted in similar coats - kozhanka. The Hungarian Ruthenians wore a lip — an uncovered fur coat with a low collar, fur on top with flaps, cut similar to a cape.
A simple coat, especially on the Right Bank, was decorated with colored patches made of sapien leather. The body coat had no or very few such stripes.
In the Poltava region, knee-length coats were worn. In the olden days, the body coat, as well as the coat, was richly embroidered. Special attention was paid to the collar and hem during embroidery. The fur was often embroidered over the waist on the back as well, while embroidering flowers over each of the three "whiskers". Coats were embroidered with garus and woolen thread. The most common colors were green and red. The craftsman first applied charcoal to the whitened leather, and then embroidered it. Covers were embroidered "in the armhole", covering the inside of the applied pattern with threads. The ornament was most often a naturalistic image of branches and flowers. The curved branches were embroidered mostly with black threads, the leaves with green, and the flowers with red, purple and yellow colors. In the Poltava region, the embroidery of jackets became the most widespread in the vicinity of Zinkov.
In ancient times, in Podilla, men wore ankle-length coats, and women wore bekeshi. Bekesha is a women's festive dress, a short, knee-length jacket covered with garnet or blue fabric. In winter, men wore white coats with a fitted back, embroidered with colored silk (green and red)
Women's coats in Ukraine did not differ from men's.
In winter, Rusyn burghers wore a fitted coat covered with blue, gray, garnet or green fabric (tulup). Tulup had a large folding collar made of gray Crimean sheep.
In winter, Rusyn burghers wore tight-fitting coats (bekesha) covered with green or blue fabric with a detachable collar made of Crimean sheep or fox. On the seams on the chest and on the back, the bekeshi were decorated with braid, sometimes really gold.
The cut of the kozhukh
6-7 skins were used for a good coat. A fold was made from one of the largest skins, that is, the top of the jacket. The skin was cut in the form of a trapezoid and folded in the middle. A hole for the neck was cut from above, and the front was cut in half. Wedges, sleeves, collar, hems cut from other skins were sewn to this base of the coat.
